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Leh

Ladakh · 3,500 m

Leh Ladakh Travel Guide

Where to go, where to stay and where to eat in Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong and Hanle. Written from my own trip, for anyone planning theirs.

3,500 mAltitude of Leh town
May–SepBest months to visit
2 daysRest in Leh before going higher
Leh airportNearest place to fly in
Monk and Key Monastery
Road through the mountains near Leh, Ladakh
Places to visit

What to see in Leh and around

Ride with us: from Leh's bazaar to a cliff-top monastery, over Chang La to the blue of Pangong, and along the Shyok river to a café in Nubra. Tap any pin to open it.

Indus Pangong Tso Hemis · snow leopard country Khardung LaChang LaChushulNyomaShyok 01 Leh MarketStart here · 3,500 m 02 Thiksey MonasteryMorning prayers 03 Pangong Lake~4,350 m · via Chang La 04 HanleDark Sky Reserve Hunder caféHotel Karma Inn · Nubra N
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Leh Main Bazaar at sunset with prayer flags and Leh PalaceMain Bazaar at golden hour
Leh town

Leh Market

The best place in Leh, hands down. Walk the Main Bazaar under rows of prayer flags, with Leh Palace watching from the hill above. Shop for pashmina shawls, prayer wheels, dry apricots and silver jewellery, grab a momo or a cup of butter tea, and stay till sunset, when the whole street glows gold and the mountains turn pink.

3,500 mAltitude
In townFrom Leh
5–8 pmBest time
Thiksey Monastery on its hilltop near LehThiksey, painted white and red
Leh and Nubra Valley

Monasteries: Thiksey, Hemis and Diskit

Thiksey climbs a whole hillside just outside Leh, white walls stacked up to a red prayer hall, and the morning prayers here are unforgettable. Hemis is the largest and richest monastery in Ladakh. Diskit, in Nubra Valley, has a giant Maitreya Buddha looking out over the valley and the sand dunes below.

~3,600 mThiksey
19 kmFrom Leh
6–7 amPrayers
Blue water of Pangong Lake with mountains behindPangong, a new colour every hour
Day trip or overnight

Pangong Lake

So beautiful it doesn’t look real. Pangong sits at about 4,350 m and stretches for more than 130 km, most of it across the border in Tibet. The water changes from deep blue to turquoise to green as the light moves through the day. Start early from Leh, carry warm layers, and if you can, stay a night to see the stars over the lake.

~4,350 mAltitude
~160 kmFrom Leh
May–SepBest months
Milky Way over the mountains of Ladakh on a new moon nightThe Milky Way over Ladakh
For night-sky lovers

Hanle: telescopes and the Milky Way

Hanle is one of the last villages before the border and feels like the edge of the world. It is home to the Indian Astronomical Observatory, one of the highest in the world, and MACE, Asia’s largest gamma-ray telescope. It is also India’s first Dark Sky Reserve, so on a moonless night the Milky Way stretches right across the sky. Plan around the new moon and bring a tripod.

~4,500 mAltitude
~255 kmFrom Leh
New moonBest nights
Where to stay

Stay

In Nubra Valley

Lchang Nang Retreat, The House of Trees, in Nubra Valley

Lchang Nang Retreat – The House of Trees

Tegar Village, Nubra Valley

If you want a luxury stay with traditional hospitality, go for Lchang Nang Retreat.

Visit website →

In Leh town

essence AT LADAKH hotel in Leh

essence AT LADAKH

Upper Karzoo, Yourtung Road, Leh

Best for luxury travel, and if you really want to feel the Leh vibes.

Visit website →
Rainbow Holiday Home in Leh

Rainbow Holiday Home

Leh

A simple stay in Leh town for travellers who want a comfortable base.

View on Booking.com →
Where to eat

Cafes

Hotel Karma Inn café

Hunder, Nubra Valley

My favourite food stop in Nubra. Grab a hot meal and a cup of tea here after the sand dunes of Hunder, with the mountains all around you.

Cosmic Cafe

Ladakh

One of the highest cafes in Ladakh. Sitting here with a hot cup of tea, thin mountain air and nothing but peaks around you is an experience on its own. A must-stop if you love cafes with a view.

Good to know

Leh Ladakh FAQ

What is the best time to visit Leh Ladakh?
May to September is the best time to visit Leh Ladakh. The weather is pleasant in the day, and the road routes from Manali and Srinagar are usually open from around June to October.
How many days are enough for Leh, Nubra Valley and Pangong Lake?
Plan at least 6 to 7 days. Spend the first 2 days resting in Leh to adjust to the altitude, then give Nubra Valley 2 days and Pangong Lake 1 to 2 days. Add 2 to 3 more days if you also want to visit Hanle.
Do I need a permit to visit Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake and Hanle?
Indian tourists no longer need an Inner Line Permit, but you have to pay an environment and wildlife fee online before you go to these areas. Foreign tourists need a Protected Area Permit. Carry printed copies, as there are checkpoints on the way.
How can I avoid altitude sickness in Leh?
Rest for the first 24 to 48 hours after you arrive, drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol and go higher slowly. If a headache, breathlessness or nausea gets worse, go to a lower altitude and see a doctor.
Can you see the Milky Way from Hanle?
Yes. Hanle is part of a dark sky reserve with very little light pollution, so the Milky Way is clearly visible on moonless nights. Plan your visit around the new moon and bring a tripod for long-exposure photos.
Keep exploring

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